You guy's ever time your motors?
12-05-2016, 04:49 PM
#1
You guy's ever time your motors?
My walker bulldog was pulling way to one side no matter if i applied full trim so I took the slower motor out and bent up the motor tabs and ground off the plastic lump that sits in the notch on the can on it and I advanced it's timing so now my tank runs in a straight line.
I did this by twisting the plastic end bell when it was in the tank until i found the correct spot then I glued around the motor cap with a few dabs of Goop glue to hold it in place.
Worked like a charm!
I did this by twisting the plastic end bell when it was in the tank until i found the correct spot then I glued around the motor cap with a few dabs of Goop glue to hold it in place.
Worked like a charm!
12-05-2016, 05:11 PM
#2
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We used to time the slot car motors but not in the way you did. We would check the timing on the commutator and had a tool to turn it in relation to the rotor. These were three pole motors.
Jimmy
Jimmy
12-05-2016, 07:56 PM
#5
Try what i did ...take open 2 motor tabs with small screw driver and then simply push the pinion gear side in the motor so the plastic end bell pops open when holding it in your hand pop it off enough so you can rotate and put the notch that's in the center in one down and push the cap on screw it in the gearbox and try it and if it did not work the correct way do it again and put the cap notch in the far other side notch and try again... if that don't work grind the plastic notch off so you can rotate it further in both directions to fine tune it better. Then put it back in the tank again and drive it and then twist the plastic end bell with a needle nose pliers clock wise and test if that don't work twist it counter clock wise do this until you get the tank going straight then just glue the cap on the motor.
12-06-2016, 04:31 AM
#6
It's nice too see someone thinking outside the box like this!!! Almost all RC tanks will favor one side or the other... even real tanks need to be slightly corrected some. I've seen RC cars and trucks do this too, unless you're taking you tank for a walk? Just make sure you know which way to turn the end bell. LOL! You gotta be a pretty experienced to go this way. IMHO. 
Just don't compromise the wiring inside. 
I once raced HO slot cars and unless you ran in an unlimited armature class, twisting the comm was forbidden. This is why soldered tabs were not allowed as crimped tabs on the comm were difficult to alter and can be seen through a set of loops. AND, it was for a marginal gain too, depending on the track requirements because it didn't make more HP, just affected available torque.
If it bothered me that much I would entertain using a different motor rated at another RPM on that side.
Jeff
Just don't compromise the wiring inside. I once raced HO slot cars and unless you ran in an unlimited armature class, twisting the comm was forbidden. This is why soldered tabs were not allowed as crimped tabs on the comm were difficult to alter and can be seen through a set of loops. AND, it was for a marginal gain too, depending on the track requirements because it didn't make more HP, just affected available torque.
If it bothered me that much I would entertain using a different motor rated at another RPM on that side.
Jeff
12-06-2016, 06:09 AM
#7
I did it with all slot cars also and all RC stuff guess being in the RC and slot car hobby for over 35 years helps I just about seen everything! 
It's nice too see someone thinking outside the box like this!!! Almost all RC tanks will favor one side or the other... even real tanks need to be slightly corrected some. I've seen RC cars and trucks do this too, unless you're taking you tank for a walk? Just make sure you know which way to turn the end bell. LOL! You gotta be a pretty experienced to go this way. IMHO. Just don't compromise the wiring inside.
I once raced HO slot cars and unless you ran in an unlimited armature class, twisting the comm was forbidden. This is why soldered tabs were not allowed as crimped tabs on the comm were difficult to alter and can be seen through a set of loops. AND, it was for a marginal gain too, depending on the track requirements because it didn't make more HP, just affected available torque.
If it bothered me that much I would entertain using a different motor rated at another RPM on that side.
Jeff
Just don't compromise the wiring inside. I once raced HO slot cars and unless you ran in an unlimited armature class, twisting the comm was forbidden. This is why soldered tabs were not allowed as crimped tabs on the comm were difficult to alter and can be seen through a set of loops. AND, it was for a marginal gain too, depending on the track requirements because it didn't make more HP, just affected available torque.
If it bothered me that much I would entertain using a different motor rated at another RPM on that side.
Jeff
12-06-2016, 07:35 AM
#10
Actually, think of it as more of a 'spark advance/retard' than timing because to truly change the timing the commutator orientation to the lamination must be changed.
What is occurring is that the endbell/back plate is rotated allowing the brushes to make contact with the comm earlier or later, depending on which direction of the armature rotation. The material of the can has tabs that lock onto the plate preventing it from rotating. Remove or pull the tabs free, the plate can rotate.
The Super G H.O. slot car has this feature as the brush system/endbell is allowed to rotate a few degrees either way to 'alter' the brushes contact with the commutator.
I'm sure there are illustrations of this on google or yahoo.
HTH
Jeff
12-06-2016, 07:50 AM
#11
Before you go messing with timing on your motors make sure the gearboxes/output shafts aren't bound up somewhere. Great fix for transmitters with no trims, good thinking Steve.
12-06-2016, 08:53 AM
#12
Yeah, I think it's good to look into this area but there are a few negative reactions to altering the timing in the motor for tanks. They do turn both directions, unlike a slot car motor. I know it's only a few degrees as they are 0 timed.
They do produce motors for aircraft that have the timing advanced... not so good to use in RC tanks.
I would look more into the gearing, pinion gear change or even using a motor with a different RPM rating that would in effect make the motor slower or faster, depending.
Jeff
They do produce motors for aircraft that have the timing advanced... not so good to use in RC tanks.
I would look more into the gearing, pinion gear change or even using a motor with a different RPM rating that would in effect make the motor slower or faster, depending.
Jeff
12-06-2016, 08:59 AM
#13
Guy's the motors used in these HL tanks are not the same RPM I tested them on my RPM checker a long time ago and sometimes you just get a slower motor like with any electric RC motors some are faster and some are slower.
Panther F a pinion gear change would work also but with a HL you would need to grind out the hole for the motor and slot one of the motor screw holes out.
anyhow my video is up in another post. my tank goes straight now I am Happy..
Panther F a pinion gear change would work also but with a HL you would need to grind out the hole for the motor and slot one of the motor screw holes out.
anyhow my video is up in another post. my tank goes straight now I am Happy.
.
12-07-2016, 06:58 AM
#16
The same with a Tamiya frame... just a little work. I have done so on many pinion gear changes.
But it works for you and I'm not arguing anything against it, just stating some options.
Like I said... thinking outside the box. Good job!Jeff
